Daisy Cross Body Kit Instructions

DAISY CROSS BODY by BLUE CALLA

MODIFICATIONS FOR USING CORK & WAXED CANVAS

PATTERN PIECES

BY PIECE:

STRAP

(recommend cutting these out of your materials first)

2” x full width – Waxed Canvas

3” x full width – Cork Fabric

 

MAIN PANEL A

2 – Exterior Cotton Choice

2 – Decovil Light (for exterior)

2 – Lining Cotton Choice

2 – Pellon 808 (for interior)

 

TOP BAND B

4 – Waxed Canvas

-OR-

2 – Waxed Canvas

2 – Lining Cotton Choice

2 – Pellon 808

 

GUSSET C

2 – Waxed Canvas

2 – Pellon Flex-Foam (trim 1/2” off bigger short edge)

2 – Lining Cotton Choice

2 – Pellon 808

 

D-RING CONNECTOR

2” x 36” – Cork Fabric

 

ZIPPER – Cork Fabric

  • STOPS

2 - 1.5” x .25”

  • PANELS

2 - 1.25” x 12.5”

  • TAB

1 - 1.25” x 2”

 

BY MATERIAL:

CORK FABRIC:

  • 1 - STRAP - 3" x 54" (cut first)
  • 1 - D-RING CONNECTOR - 2" X 36"
  • 2 - ZIPPER PANELS - 1.25" X 12.5"
  • 1 - ZIPPER TAB - 1.25" X 2"
  • 2 - ZIPPER STOPS - .25" X 1.5"

WAXED CANVAS:

  • 1 - STRAP - 2" X 60" (cut first)
  • 4 or 2 - TOP BAND B
    • If you do not wish to have your lining fabric showing quite a bit on the exterior of your bag, cut 4)
  • 2 - GUSSET C

EXTERIOR COTTON CHOICE:

  • 2 - MAIN PANEL A

LINING COTTON CHOICE:

  • 2 - MAIN PANEL A
  • 2 - TOP BAND B (IF NOT USING WAXED CANVAS)

PELLON 808:

  • 2 - MAIN PANEL A
  • 2 - TOP BAND B (IF USING LINING COTTON, NOT WAXED CANVAS)
  • 2 - GUSSET C

PELLON FLEX-FOAM

  • 2 - GUSSET C (trim 1/2” off bigger short edge)

DECOVIL LIGHT

  • 2 - MAIN PANEL A

 

ZIPPER FACING, LINING, & SLIP POCKET – As Written (Cotton & Pellon 808)

 

SEWING PREP

EDGE PAINTING/SEALING

The following pieces will need to be sealed, since we are not using linings to envelop the raw edges: Zipper Panels, Stops, & Tab. We will seal some parts initially and some will come later in the process.

ZIPPER STOPS: One Long Edge on each stop

ZIPPER TAB: Both Short Edges

ZIPPER PANELS:



INTERFACING

Adhere all interfacings as written.

Pellon 808:  

  • Interior Main Panel A
  • Top Band B Lining (if not using Waxed Canvas)
  • Lining Gusset
  • Slip Pocket (one side only)
  • Zipper Pocket Lining (both sides)

Decovil Light – Exterior Main Panel A

Flex Foam – Exterior Gusset C

  • Zig Zag stitch Flex Foam to Waxed Canvas Gussets on 3 sides, we will not be stitching the side that was trimmed 1/2”.

Assemble Gusset/D-Ring Connector as written.

Assemble bag Exterior as written.

 

PATTERN DEVIATIONS

MAIN ZIPPER ASSEMBLY

Zipper should be 14” total length. Evenly trim zipper tape to start with, mark with chalk 1/4” in from one side and pull teeth up to that mark from the outside of zipper.

Glue 1/4” zipper stops right above zipper teeth with sealed edges toward the teeth. Ensure sealed edges are fairly even and clip in place to dry.

Once dry, trim any excess zip tape and even up the edges. Clip Cork Zipper Panels (1/4” Wonder Tape will come in handy here) along edge of zipper tape, sealed edges should be away from zipper stops AND towards the metal teeth. Sew both panels with 1/8” seam allowance from the panel edge (1/4” from zipper teeth).

Seal/Finish edges on outer side with the Stops.

You may add the Zipper tab now or at the completion of the bag.

Add slider, but do not pull the open-end teeth (side with stops) open quite yet.

Add your zipper tab by marking with chalk 1” (or length of folded over cork tab) from raw edge of zipper teeth and pull teeth up to that mark from outside of zipper.

Fold zipper tab in half on 2” side, matching up sealed edges on either side of zipper. Glue in place and clip to allow it to dry. Using 1/8” seam allowance, stitch around zipper tab. Seal all unsealed, raw edges being careful not to get any on your zipper tape.

STRAP ASSEMBLY

Mark a line at the half (1.5” for your Cork Fabric, and 1” for the Waxed Canvas) down the length of the strap pieces.

First taking your Cork Fabric, fold over both edges to meet at that half mark along the entire length of the strap, clipping along the way. Sew 1/8” from center (so, 5/8” seam allowance from edge) on both sides of strap.

Now, fold your Waxed Canvas edges to meet in the center as before. Center Waxed Canvas strip on your Cork Strap, seam sides together. Clip together all the way down, then sew with a 3/8” seam allowance from cork edge. This should give you a scant seam within the waxed canvas edge.

Secure the strap around the Strap Slider using whichever method you prefer. Put on a Swivel Clasp and put raw strap edge through Strap Slider, Waxed Canvas side up. Put on the other Swivel Clasp and use 2 rivets and/or stitching to secure it in place. Set aside.

GUSSET ASSEMBLY

While the majority of this will be as written, we will be using an additional 2 rivets to secure the D-Ring Connector to the Gusset. You can do this before or after sewing D-Ring Connector to Gusset, but you will want to punch a hole and place a rivet about 1” below D-Ring to secure on both sides of the D-Ring Connector. If you are sewing before, make sure you leave a little room between your future rivet placement and stitching. 

SLIP POCKET

What do you carry in your bag normally? A pen? A phone? Divide your pocket however works for you! Just make sure you give each item some room to expand the pocket out…give it about 1/2” on both sides between the item and the stitching.

ZIPPER POCKET

Your zipper for this should be 11” total length. The only thing you will need to do outside of the pattern here is, if you are using a metal zipper, you will need to mark the rectangle on your facing to 9” x .75” to accommodate the bigger slider and give you room to pull a few teeth. You will also need to place your zipper under your pocket opening and chalk mark the edges. Pull the teeth from the raw edges up to your marks. And make sure to add the slider before stitching the zipper to the placket!